What Is Vivara Perfume?

Vivara is the first fragrance ever released under the Emilio Pucci name: an intense green chypre for women, launched in 1965 and composed by the perfumer Michel Hy. It was discontinued, then reformulated and relaunched in 2007 by François Demachy, Nathalie Gracia-Cetto and Marie-Aude Couture. The original was a bitter, mossy, herb-infused chypre — a style that only took over the market in the 1970s, which is why collectors call Vivara a fragrance ahead of its time.

Hy wrote Vivara shortly after composing Y for Yves Saint Laurent (1964), and the two share a family resemblance: a galbanum-green opening, a polished floral heart and a dry leather-and-moss base. Commonly cited notes are galbanum, bergamot, green notes, peach and aldehydes; a heart of rose, jasmine, carnation, ylang-ylang and lily; and a base of Mysore sandalwood, labdanum, oakmoss, leather, amber, benzoin and vetiver.

The House Behind Vivara

Emilio Pucci (1914–1992), Marquis of Barsento, founded his house in Florence in 1947 after a ski outfit he designed was photographed for Harper's Bazaar. He opened his first boutique on Capri in 1950, and his silk-jersey prints became the uniform of the jet set. Known as the Prince of Prints, Pucci waited nearly two decades before putting his name on a bottle — Vivara was the result.

Five Vivara Expressions Every Collector Should Know

1. Vivara Parfum (1965) — the original extrait and the rarest form: rectangular clear-glass flacons with VIVARA parfum screened directly onto the glass, closed with a heavy sculpted metal stopper and boxed in a Pucci-print coffret.
2. Eau de Vivara (1968) — the lighter department-store edition, discontinued and harder to find than the parfum.
3. Vivara Super (1969) — a chypre-floral remake leaning on aldehydes, green notes, carnation and sandalwood.
4. Signor Vivara (1970) — the men's counterpart, a leathery-animal cologne and the least-seen Pucci bottle of the period.
5. Vivara (2007) — the relaunch: galbanum, amaretto and bergamot on top; narcissus, orange blossom and jasmine in the heart; iris, patchouli and vetiver below. It was followed by the limited Vivara Black Edition (2009) and the Vivara Variazioni quartet (2011), then the line went quiet again.

Vivara Parfum in the TrendyGround Vault

We hold three original-concentration Vivara parfum extraits — one 30 ml flacon and two 60 ml flacons. Every detail below was read off the actual glass and coffret.

• Vivara Parfum 30 ml — $107: clear rectangular glass, VIVARA / parfum / Emilio Pucci screened on the front, sculpted gold-tone stopper, geometric Pucci-print coffret. View this flacon →
• Vivara Parfum 60 ml — $219: large flacon with a faceted silver-tone stopper, amber-gold juice, with its Pucci-print box. View this flacon →
• Vivara Parfum 60 ml — $179: same 60 ml extrait, silver fluted stopper, higher fill level, bottle only. View this flacon →

Note the concentration on the glass: these are parfum, not eau de parfum. The 2007 relaunch was an eau de parfum, so an extrait-marked flacon is a different animal — thicker, slower and far more leather-and-moss driven than the modern version.

How to Tell an Original Vivara From the 2007 Relaunch

Attribute	Vivara 1965	Vivara 2007
Concentration	Parfum extrait	Eau de parfum
Perfumer	Michel Hy	Demachy, Gracia-Cetto, Couture
Scent	Bitter green floral chypre: galbanum, moss, leather	Bright floral-green chypre: amaretto, orange blossom, iris
Bottle	Clear glass, text screened on glass, sculpted metal stopper	Fully redesigned flacon
Companions	Eau de Vivara 1968, Vivara Super 1969, Signor Vivara 1970	Vivara Black Edition 2009, Vivara Variazioni 2011

Authentication checklist for extrait flacons

• VIVARA is screened directly on the glass with the Emilio Pucci signature beneath it — not a paper label or sticker.
• The stopper is a single sculpted piece of metal or glass, far heavier than a modern crimped spray collar.
• The coffret carries the house's geometric print and the French origin marking sits on the base of the glass.
• Extraits came in 15, 30 and 60 ml. The juice should be amber to deep gold; cloudiness or sediment is the red flag.

Frequently Asked Questions About Emilio Pucci Vivara

Is Emilio Pucci Vivara discontinued?

Yes. The original 1965 Vivara was withdrawn decades ago, and the 2007 relaunch was itself discontinued — fragrance databases list both as out of production. Pucci's fashion house continues under LVMH, but no Vivara is in regular production, so the name only turns up in vintage and deadstock listings.

How rare is the original 1965 Vivara parfum?

Genuinely rare. It was Pucci's first fragrance, produced in modest quantities for a couture clientele. Extrait flacons that survive with their coffret and a reasonable fill level are the ones collectors chase; the companion editions are rarer still.

What does a green chypre smell like?

A chypre is built on the oakmoss–labdanum–patchouli base with bergamot on top; a green chypre adds galbanum and cut-leaf notes, making the opening bitter and vegetal rather than sweet. Vivara is an unusually early and unusually mossy example — dry, herbal and sophisticated.

Where can I buy authentic vintage Emilio Pucci Vivara?

TrendyGround sources discontinued fragrance from estate and collector channels, photographs every bottle individually, and has sold rare perfume online for over fifteen years. Stock rotates constantly, so if a flacon is listed today, it is physically in hand.